Jay finds some “very appealling” aspects to Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s latest canteen, in a “cabaret venue in the heart of Bath”. There are “large pastoral farming images on the walls and a bunch of smiley, enthusiastic waitresses”, and “[a] few of the dishes were great”. Some, though, were “less impressive” and he finds the prices “concerning” – “[t]his is a business for people who can afford their ethics”. “Most tiresome of all, however, is the endless flogging of River Cottage product.”
Jasper Gerard (4th May 2009)
2/5
“Whisper it, but is Hugh [Fearnley-Whittingstall] becoming a bit Tesco himself – pile it high with warm slogans and sell it expensive?”, wonders the critic. One of his pet hates, it turns out, is food that “shouts” at him – “[i]n between photos of cows and Hugh and old goats there are enough slogans for an election battle bus”. “And so to another pet hate: floaty, studenty waiters who are too talented to wait on tables.” The puddings may have impressed but, all in all, this is not a good review.
Jay Rayner (8th June 2009)
Jasper Gerard (4th May 2009)
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