For a “dignified” meal in “tranquil” surroundings, this “lovely” country house hotel remains a highly-rated destination, thanks not least to the “imaginative” cuisine from Michael Caines protégé Sam Moody.
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It must have a new PR firm or something: this country house hotel restaurant gets a major review for the second week running. The Indie’s man comes to broadly the same conclusion as Zoe Williams at the Telegraph did: he finds the “most imaginative” cooking of the year so far here, if perhaps with too much emphasis on “Presentation”.
Zoe Williams (12th May 2008)
7/10
The critic finds the full country house effect at this famous hotel “slightly comical” – “you can't do English Country House properly unless you take yourself pretty seriously. “Within those parameters of weirdness, this is about the best executed Total Englishness I've encountered, and I say that despite the fact that the chef seems to have some kind of eating disorder”. Said disorder, it seems, is evidenced by the fact that he has “‘reduced harmful fats, dairy products, gluten and sugars to negligible levels’”.
John Walsh (19th May 2008)
Zoe Williams (12th May 2008)
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