“Improved” of late, this “top-quality” gastropub (in a former petrol station!) is now beginning to live up to the standards of the locally pre-eminent Gingerman Group, of which it is a member; for particularly good value, “seek out the lunch and early-evening menus”.
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The critic visits the rural outpost of Brighton’s Gingerman empire. He ends his meal with “the kind of warm glow that comes from having expectations exceeded, appetites satisfied”.